December 2004

Being the first month of summer has now made me think about body repairs again. I will finish off all the small outstanding fabrication and repairs this month, then drag out the front sheet metal and see what needs to be done.

This is the view of the obstacles I have to contend with. The wiper on the left, and the demister vent on right. Fistly, I have to form a glove box, then modify it a bit. The second pic is some formed sheet metal that I tacked around the MDF I cut out last month. I used .75mm sheet and it is a bit hard to work. I was after some .5mm but couldn't find any. Originally I intended to solder it up, but being a bit thicker, I may mig it. I will get back to this later.

I know I'm jumping around a bit but that's the way I work when little obstacles crop up, I tend to leave it and go onto something else. The rear seat belts could finally be finished after a trip to the wreckers and a pair of belt rings scrounged off a wreck. I mounted the mechanism high on the wheel arch with a support plate outside. I don't think it will interfere with the tyres. The bolt head is outside and fairly flat. I secured the ring into an existing hole. It is quite thick metal at that point and I used a large type nut to make it stronger.

This is a handbrake I scrounged out of a Datsun 180B. It fits under the dash and I think I can modify it to fit where the original handbrake was. I have no other choice as there is no room for it on the left. So after a bit of cutting, checking, head scratching and swearing, this is the 180B handbrake. It fits perfectly...in the bin. I spent way too much time on it and it seemed obvious that it was not going to fit. So option B is a floor mounted unit. Not my desire, but no options left. Another trip to the wrecker is on the agenda.

So, what next. How about the rear boot latch to fill in time. The first pic is a view under the boot where the original mechanism would normally reside. The unit on the right is a store bought item I purchased months ago. It has a pin latch like the doors have.

First thing to do was to remove the original latch plate. That left a couple of holes that will need welding up. I intend to have the latch operating via a solenoid but retaining the original handle. I intend to have a chrome button where the original lock resided. So first thing was to gut the handle and get it ready.

I had to modify ( read butcher ) the handle a fair bit. It needed to be able to accommodate a button mechanism and still have a means of securing it to act as a normal handle, except that it won't rotate. I'll get back to that when I find the right switch. Mean while, I remembered that I was given a Toyota latch a while back. It was a neater fit than the store bought item, so I am using that instead. The 2 major advantages is that it has a "U" latch instead of the pin. That means I don't have to have the latch and "U" section at 90 degrees to each other, like I would have had to do with the pin. Also, it has a means of actuating the mechanical release in the event of solenoid failure. I have seen too many guys trying to break into their cars for that reason. You can just see the little lever on the R/H side of the latch. With a strategically positioned hole, I will be able to operate it from under the pan tray.

This is the original Toyota latch "U" plate. That section on the L/H side is where a cable release would fit. I won't need that, so off it comes. The second pic is the boot closed in the latched position.

This is the latch with the extra bit taken off. I have moved the mounting holes inwards a bit to fit better. I will weld those washers in that position, then trim the plate flush with the sides. The second pic is another handbrake. This one is off a Honda ( I don't know what model, but it was an old one )

This where I intend to have it. Not as obtrusive as I would have thought. It will mount on the existing seat cradle so I kind of achieved the desired objective, having nothing on the floor but carpet. The second pic is back to the rear boot latch. I made a recessed plate out of some 3mm scrap to act as an anchor for the handle to lift from. It also stiffens up the area around the latch. I welded 2 nuts onto the plate and will use small bolts to attach it. It had to be recessed to clear the latch

The handle back into the original position. I can't do much more until it comes back from the chrome platers. Being made of pot metal means it will be rather weak. I also added to this by gouging some lines when I was getting it apart. I will glue a sleeve over it when it finally assembled to give it back some strength. I only need a small hole for the wires to route through. I will also pin and glue the square shaft. I will also run the tap further down so I can have a nut on both sides of the plate. This is all trail and error on my part. I have not seen this done before...but that won't stop me.

Now, back to the glove box. I had to disassemble the dash so I could coax the new liner into position. Initially, I cut a fair bit out to clear the vent. This looked like it was going to encroach too much. I pondered fabricating a new compact vent. Luckily, I had a brain storm ( for a change instead of an explosion ). I unscrewed the vent and mounted it the other way. This made it angle back a fair bit and also occupied the same area as the wiper motor. Only one modification required. Of course I had to weld the first bit of surgery back. You can just see it on the top right of the glove box. I will just need a longer vent hose but I have plenty of that. The second pic is the bare dash. From now on, all parts removed will not be re fitted until final assembly. Now that's a good feeling. I must be making progress.

I took this pic to show how neat the Henrob can weld. This is using the 0 tip with 1.6mm filler rod on .75mm tin. I just hit the job with a couple of passes with the flap disk to show how neat it cleans up. Of course, if this was going to be on display, I would just touch up a couple of areas and grind back. I could not do this with the mig. I know many could, but I find the Henrob less brutal and easier to control.

After making a cardboard template, I duplicated the shapes into tin plate, then welded up. The finished job is rather pleasing and clears all obstacles. I'm uncertain how to cover the inside. Originally I contemplated using some sort of thin felt, but now I just might texture coat with some spray cans. Outside will be gloss black paint.

This is the last of the large panels loaded into my son's ute on their way to be bead blasted. I don't expect too much sin under that paint so I think I will be finished with them in a few weekends. The inner guards will need most of my time I think. They were cut up a bit and will need a bit of surgery. The second pic is the the gear lever. The original pin was very loose in the casting. I had to drill out the holes oversize and fit another larger expanding pin. I will re assemble the column and paint it before it goes into hiding until final assembly.

This is a pic of the column after I spent a day figuring out how it went back together. The indicator cancelling mechanism was also broken and would not cancel one way. I sent out a message on the HRI forum and quickly had a young rodder in Victoria sending me one that worked. So I disassembled the column again. The new one was in my hands the next day. I spent another few hours fitting the new one. Once assembled I tried everything out. All was working perfectly until I must have jammed it up some how. I then noticed it was not cancelling one way. As I tilted the column, the broken bit fell out.....Oh well... back to the drawing board I guess. At least I've become an expert on how XY steering columns come apart, and more importantly, how they go back together.

So here it sits with all he other completed items hanging on the wall with a coat of black paint. I just might not bother getting a new mechanism. They seem fairly flimsy and prone to break in any case. I can manually cancel it OK. Or I might try a NOS item off Ebay. I've seen them in the past. I think the second hand units' plastic bits become brittle after time and not worth the trouble fitting.

The second pic is the bonnet with the huge hole where the blower used to stick out . Apart from that, its in real good nick. I will hammer weld the piece that was cut out ( luckily, the previous owner kept it ) back in. It appears he performed some extra trimming after it was cut out, so I will need to fabricate another 1/2" or so strip as well.

First repair was to the inner guards. The previous owner cut a huge hole to clear the L300 front end. I can't see why such a huge hole. After I fitted the upper control arm I could see it would have only required a minor piece of surgery. Oh well, I guess it's time to get out my specialised tin forming tools. That is, my aviation sheers, vice, vice grips, multi grips, hammer and my tool draw ( The draw edge to create curved bends;-) )...and of course my thumb and knee. My only powered or special tool I'm using is the air sheers. They are just good for cutting long straight sections. No good for curves. And finally, my trusty Henrob gas torch.

I decided to run a 4" strip of .75mm tin with a curve just at the area behind R/H part of the control arm. I'm using the sheet that I used for the glove box. Luckily I bought a fairly large sheet and had some left over. Also it is the same gage as the inner guard. Each vent was just over 1 1/2" wide, so I used the air sheers to cut one long strip. I then just cut and formed each vent as I went.

I removed the inner guard and finished off all the welding. I ground them back ( they didn't need a lot ) Then its a smear of bog. Most of that will sand off. I also cut out some of the original bolt holes cause they've been cut up too much to use. I just welded in blank pieces and will drill them out once I figure out where the hole should be. There's still a bit more work to do, but I'm rather pleased how it turned out. I will also weld a small bracket on top of the angle iron and use that as another anchoring point for the inner guard . 3 bolts aren't enough IMHO. I suspect the angle iron is blocking the original hole. This new bracket should give it a bit more rigidity..

I should have taken a pic of the inside. You would have a greater perspective that way. I will show that when I do the other side...Next Year!!!

Well this is the last update for 2004. I hope everyone that's dropped in from time to time has had something interesting to see. Or amusement as I plug along. I hope all my rodder friends have/ had a good Christmas ( I did ) and a great new year. Take care in your garages and on the road.........I will be back next year ( all going well ) to continue this epic voyage of discovery ;-)

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