December  2005

 

Well, as mentioned last month, the weather has beat me with the chassis painting. So I am not going to aim to high this month. I just want all the painting done. If I get beyond that, it's a bonus.

 

I woke up to sunshine on Saturday morning. The forecast said it was only temporary, so it was all hands on deck!!!..but as usual, I was the only one that turned up;-). I did manage to finish off all the painting and on Sunday, I started the assembly phase. Here is the rear springs now bolted in for the last time I hope. I assembled  the brake callipers and will keep assembling throughout the week nights. Hopefully, by next weekend, It will be close to a roller. I must say, it feels great knowing all the repairs and fabrications are over....so it's full steam ahead!....I just hope there is no unseen mine fields ahead....but I bet there are a few.

I acquired a new pair of P76 rotors. The main reason was for the Ford stud pattern and they use Holden HQ wheel bearing.  The only problem is the stud holes are to small for the Ford studs. Also they need special adaptors to get the disk in correct alignment on the spindle and callipers. Firstly, I had  to drill the rotors out to accept the Ford studs. I had worked out a while back that the holes need to be 19/32" for the studs to fit snug. Those drill bits are not found in any common hardware store, so I bought one from a machinery supply shop.

The next pic is the adaptors needed to fit the rotor to the HQ spindle. That comprises of a inner spacer, disk calliper spacers, longer calliper bolts and a dust seal adaptor. I obtained the adaptor kit from CRS.  A good supplier of all rod related stuff.

The new rotor comes with the outer race already installed. That needs to be driven out to make way for the spacer. Now the spacer is set in place.
I used the outer  race I just removed to start driving the spacer in. Once its near home, I used my drift to set it home.
Once the spacer is in, I drove the new outer race into position. Lastly, the dust seal adaptor is fitted.

Next pic is the front end nearly assembled.
Diff is now installed and completely finished. It has new axel seals, shoes, wheel cylinders, drums, wheel bearings and filled with oil.

Next pic is the brake booster and pedal installed.
Another view of the front end....and the messy garage..I don't change do I?
Here is the spindle with the dust seal, ready for the rotor. The bearings are greased up and slid into place. Here is the first problem that the P76 conversion does not mention. Since the rotor is narrower, the disk slides onto the spindle further. The problem is the castellated nut screws in further and makes the split pin hole non functional. The only options are to re drill the hole, or, as I did, use 2  spindle washers.
The next minor problem is the grease cup now fouls with the spindle and can't be fitted all the way on. You can get deeper cups I'm told. I will investigate.

The last pic is the 2 calliper spacers are fitted, and the calliper bolted back on using the longer bolts. The callipers have new seals, dust covers and pads. 

I bought new studs and used a spacer and impact gun and an old nut to  pull them into place. You could drive them in with a lump hammer and drift. I'll take the easy way. You will notice that I'm using a spark plug socket. I could have used a normal socket since I found a large spacer. I just couldn't be bothered finding it. I had to use the die grinder and cutting burr to clean up behind the rotor where the head of the stud fits. It was a little to tight. It didn't need much metal removed.
Just to check that the studs are all the way home, they should be out as far as the machined area on the hub. It is important to have them all the way home, as they could work their way in further  when driving, and then the wheel nuts would be loose.

The next pic is the way I routed the front brake lines to the disks. I made up a bracket to hold the hose in line with the hole I drilled through the chassis. I used an off cut of bundy line and a connector to keep everything aligned while I welded the bracket onto the edge of the angle iron bracket that is part of the  front end. I fitted grommets on each side of the chassis.
It looks rather neat IMHO. Not as pretty as those through the chassis connectors I reckon, but a hell of a lot cheaper. I will run the lines completely through the week. It will require a bit of thought.
Once I paint it, it will look like it's always been that way. I have a bit of paint touching up to do as well.

Here I'm showing how I double flared the brake lines. I have never read "how to" in  any magazine I have. I don't know if its right or wrong, but it seems to work for me. First thing is to clamp the tool around the brake line in the correct hole. In this case its 3/16'. Next is to use the flaring die as a gauge to set the tube in the correct position. You will see I have it set at the shoulder of the die. Now lock the clamp tight. Place the die into the tube and position the flaring part into the die. Screw in the handle until it stops. Then unscrew and remove the die.
This is what it should look like after you remove the die. The outer edge is turned in and slightly bell shaped. That is the first part of a double flare. Now position the tool back into the tube without the die. Screw all the way in until it stops.
This is the end result. A good double flare ( we hope ) Oh yeah, don't forget to fit the coupler before you flare, cause you won't be able to once it's flared....I forgot about 3 times while I done mine. No option but to get the bundy cutting tool out and start again. Next pic is the union block I placed under the engine mount. It seem like a good spot to hide it.

I ran the lines behind the front end across to the other side. I also pop riveted small stainless steel clamps over the lines. They don't hold the lines, they just stop them from rattling.

   

The rear lines route to a bracket on the rear arch. It then uses a HQ brake hose that incorporates a union joint. That is screwed onto a bolt that I welded onto the diff earlier. I then run the lines to each wheel from there. Next pic is the strut rods fitted. When the lower control arm is level, the rod should be at right angles to the bracket. That should allow optimum movement without binding  in full suspension travel. I used urethane cause it will not compress and distort over time.
A momentous occasion. I took the opportunity when a mate wandered over  during the Christmas break to help me bleed the brakes. I only had one flare that had a small crack and leaked. I just cut it off and re done it.  The brakes bled beautifully and I have a firm pedal. I then fitted some wheels ( not the ones I intend to use ) and got it rolling. Next job will be the engine and gearbox  painted and spruced up,  then fitted. I just need to get hold of 4 x 7/16" x 3 1/2" NC high tensile bolts to bolt it to my engine stand.
 

 

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